Every aspect of my appearance screamed: “college kid.” From abused tennis shoes and ragged jeans to the yellow jacket buzzing brazenly on my hat’s back, my attire made me unmistakably recognizable as whom I intended to be, and who I am: a student attending the Georgia Institute of Technology. Furthermore, proximity brings familiarity, and STEEL, at a mere four blocks from Technology Square, is a short stroll from my school; therefore, I knew that employees at the midtown restaurant would be immediately cognizant of what I am, by which I mean: “a poor college kid.” Such was my design.
Another design, however, was not mine. She was the design of the restaurant, and she it was who sang the siren song that stole my sight from all around her. The design of the restaurant from the outside is nothing extravagant, but the simplicity enthralls, and the passing glance through the open doors captivates. Even the name, STEEL, is simple, yet thought provoking…to what could STEEL possibly refer? What type of food could be concocted within a kitchen whose motto is Never Settle? I walked past the corner of Peachtree and Peachtree at least a dozen times, and, every time, STEEL stole away my gaze from the hotels and bars and fashion boutiques around it and dared me to enter, to steal from its depths the secret to which the name refers.
When I walked in for lunch on Monday morning, I saw, expectedly, the hostess’ eyes flicker to my clothing, but when she greeted me, she did so warmly and graciously. After seating me, and unfolding and putting my napkin in my lap, she took my drink order herself, and did not even seem put out that I ordered only water (a sure sign to a waiter at any respectable place that he or she will not be receiving a great tip). My waiter showed up seconds later to ensure that my drink order had been taken and to assure me that it would be out quickly. And indeed it was brought out quickly, well before I could stop admiring the service thus far and the chic interior design. My waiter then had the tactful discernment to realize that I was not yet thinking of food, and faded wordlessly into the graceful ambiance of the restaurant.
When again he returned to take my order, I asked him for his personal recommendation. He recommended the sea bass, which is “marinated for seventy-two hours, and “the best [he’s] ever eaten.” I did not order sea bass, as I have no expertise in sea bass; I favored beef, a food with which I have a great familiarity, so I ordered the Shaken Beef Bento Box. A Bento Box is an item offered at both lunch and dinner that constitutes an entrée that comes with a choice of white or brown rice, a mixed greens salad, a choice of mango crabmeat spring roll or eggroll, and a California roll. I chose the eggroll and the brown rice to go with my sautéed beef tenderloin.
While I waited for my meal to come, I had some time to reflect on how I felt thus far about the experience. Ambiance, I decided, is definitely a five-star factor that the restaurant has mastered. Walking into a restaurant and seeing a wall of water flowing from the ceiling is unusual, impressive. The wall divides the hostess’ podium from the restaurant, which impresses in a much subtler manner, with curves contrasting with sharp edges, the natural with the man-made, the soft with the hard. These dichotomies serve to create an ambiance that is both past and present, orient and occident, separate and unified. Service far exceeded expectations up to this point in my experience, as reviews that I had read by others had implied impartiality towards Tech students, which is something that I did not see at all. Testing for a sense of coldness towards students on the part of the employees was my primary purpose for coming so dressed during such a slow time; so doing would provide them no room for excuses if the service were anything less than acceptable.
If still any doubts remained of quality of service, then the arrival of the food dispelled them entirely: the managing partner, Chuck, came to ask me whether the food appeared correct and then went off to get a sauce that he said that the kitchen had forgotten to send out with the eggroll.
The Bento Box, when it arrived, was very much like the restaurant itself: simple, but elegant. My waiter removed the lid and set the box down in front of me before pouring soy sauce into an off-center cavity in the angular box. That is when I was able to see my meal, and the appearance did not fail to impress. Every item compartmentalized from the rest, the box begged to be eaten. Quickly, while I thought no one was looking, I snapped this picture:
First, I closed my mouth around an incredibly tender, but rather lukewarm, piece of meat. Then, I had a bite of tasty, but saturated (with dressing), salad. I ate some rice and found it, at least, to be as good as it looked, but who can ruin rice? Then the sauce for the eggroll arrived, and I tried that, and found it to be tasteful. Finally, I tasted the California roll, it was good as well. Tasteful? Good? Saturated? Nothing was spectacular. Nothing quite lived up to the expectations that the steep price ($15 for lunch) and excellent service led me to expect. The spell of the siren was breaking, and disillusionment was like the death of a friend. The restaurant exceeded my expectations, and followed up with…with that? I even gave the restaurant a second chance: dessert. I ordered the recommendation this time; I ordered the chocolate volcano cake, which came with vanilla bean ice cream. The cake came, and it was beautiful, with chocolate sauce artfully adorning it. And it was tasty and it was hot...and it was lucky that it came with…ice cream? No ice cream.
STEEL succeeds in so many ways. The ambiance could set the mood for the best restaurant in Atlanta. Service and care for the customer like I have never seen before (Chuck chased me out the door to say goodbye, calling me by name) indicates such potential. But somewhere in the kitchen, the heart of any restaurant, the perfection fails. Somewhere between restaurant and kitchen there is a difference in mindset. If the kitchen were to realize Chuck’s mindset and strive for perfection, then this restaurant could be great. Though I now know that there is no secret in STEEL, I believe that this is a good place for special occasions for Tech students, as it has the upscale atmosphere and is within walking distance: a perfect place for a first date, thanks to the unique, sophisticated atmosphere that is formal enough for a date but sufficiently loud and private enough to facilitate a conversation. A Tech student or visitor who might have a taste for a sushi dinner on Wednesday (from five to seven to be exact) can find free sushi at this restaurant.
Since reviewing STEEL, I have walked by the corner of Peachtree and Peachtree once more. My gaze has not since been stolen from me. The picture above sums up my feelings about STEEL: There is much beauty and much potential, but I now know that underneath that beautiful exterior, there is a heart that only beats halfheartedly. I think that at STEEL, you must settle. And you must settle for less.
So, I award STEEL three stars out of five: one for service, one for ambiance, and only one (of three) for the food.
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